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Grizzly/kodiak 450 snorkel

17994 Views 26 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  Pamiller450
I have seen many pics and how too threads on snorkeling a 660 or 700, but not many on 450 so here is how I did mine.

Items used

3-1.5in pvc 90s
1-2-1.5in rubber reducer
2-1.5in hose to metal fittings
1-2in hose to metal pipe fitting
4ft 1.5in pvc
2ft 2in pvc
2-1.5in pvc elbow
1-2in pvc elbow
1-2in metal to pvc fitting
2-1.5in metal to pvc fitting
1-2in rubber coupling
10-2in clamps
10ft-1.5in flex hose
5ft-2in flex hose
1 can of black silicone gasket maker
a little pvc glue
1 roll of heat tape
zip ties
1ft 3/8 in fuel hose
small rubber hose to extend the diff vent hoses
coupler for the small hoses
T for the hoses
According looking thing I got off ebay cant really rember what is called I used it to attach to the diff vent hoses
Clear hose for carb overflow
Peice of metal used as plate

First I removed seat and right floor board. Then removed the factory belt snorkels and factory airbox snorkel. The front rack and hood. Where the intake snorkel comes up under the hood, I cut out the bottom of that so that the pipes come up there.

I removed the air box lid and the factory o-ring from it. Then cut two slits on the lip that comes up for the factory intake to bolt on. I cut them directly across from each other and half way down. I then put one of the 90s in the there pointed to the right held in place with a clamp. Alittle trimming of the gas tank cover is required to make room for the 90 and pipe. I the ran the 2 in flex hose down the right side of the engine above the exhaust to the hole I cut out in the front. Then I stuck the 2in hose on the 1.5in 90n on top of the lid. Before puting hose on pvc fitting I put a few big beads of silicone on the fitting. After clamping down I put more silicone around the end of the hose. Make sure that the 90 is turned the right with by placing the lid on. After it is turned the right way remove lid and put a bead of silicone on bottom side of 90 and top side of 90 at the lid. Then Place a bead of silicone where the o-ring was on the lid then put it on. When done it should look something like this.

I then wrapped the hose with the heat tape above the exhaust so that it would not melt. I then zip tied it to the frame under the gas tank.

I had to trim a little bit on the seat to get it to fit back on correctly.

On the left side remove the cover for the oil and disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission. Rotate it around once so that the linkage sticks out from the bike. The plastic will have to be cut so that the linkage will fit. On the exhaust of the belt I placed some silicone on the motor then slid the 2-1.5in reducer on then clamped it down. I then took one end of the 1.5 in hose and cover it in silicone and stuck it in the one of the 1.5in 90s and put more silicone around it and let it dry. Then I put silicone on the other end of the 90 and stuck it in the reducer and clamped it down. I ran the flex along the left side of the engine parralel to the shift linkage and up to the hole that was cut under the hood.

Here is the exhaust hose.

This is how I ran it down the side of the engine. Notice where I had to cut the plastic so that the linkage would fit.

Notice the fuel hose that is rolled up that runs from the cam cover to the airbox. I also extended the vent hose from the rear diff and the overflow from the carb up to the hole under the hood.

On the intake for the belt I put some silicone on it the slip the rubber coupling on and clamped it down. I done the same that with the 90 as last time and slid it in the 90. I then ran the other end of the hose the same way the factory one ran.

I then cut holes in the metal plate to a way of my liking then placed that on the hood where I wanted to so that the holes would line up. After cutting the hoses long enough to reach the top of the hood I clamped them to the hose fittings and applied silicone around the end to seal off. After putting the hood on, Pulled the fittings to the metal used lock rings to secure it to the metal plate then screwed it down. Screwed the metal to pvc fittings on then glued pvc in place that was cut to desired link. Then slipped the elbows on top. Unscrewd then painted black and put back on. While I had the hood off I brought the diff vent hoses under the pod placing the acordian thing under. I brought the carb overflow up with through the hood and metal with as high as the pvc.

And Done.

There are probably some things I forgot to mention, and I know A few pics are left out next time I take the Kit off to wash the radiator or whatever I will take pics of the rest.
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It works great now. The only problems I have had is the airbox hose got a hole burned in it from the exhaust so I put the heat tape on and no more problems. And the 2" x1.5" fitting on the belt snorkel did nit fit well they are not all made the same I went through a couple before I found one that worked then I had to glue it on with black silicone gasket maker.
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I can get some more pics what do you want pics of?
For the parts I found the hose at a local place that sales hoses mainly hydraulic hoses. The threaded fitting I found at a huge feed store and I have found them at other plumbing supply stores I forget what they are called.
Re-jetting the carb all depends on other mods like exhaust or aftermarket filter, and altitude. Each bike is different. Sounds like cutting out on the high end would be too small of a main jet.
I ended up with the same.
They run pretty lean stock. I think they need a 20 without mods.
Sea level.
So I changed up my CVT exhaust snorkel up some. I didn't like how I had to cut so much plastic, that I had to flip my linkage, and that I could barely reach to adjust my carb. Now it is ran under the engine. I used the same flex pipe as before. I ran it along the frame on the left side then up like the intake snorkel.

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