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How To: 660 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

45855 Views 25 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  vigsone
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Parts Needed

-Rear wheel bearings: I used Kawasaki part# 92045-0123. Its the same bearing Yamaha uses but a fraction of the cost. I paid about $11 at my local Kawie dealer.







-New hub nuts: Optional depending on condition. Yamaha part# 90179-20006-00 I paid $6.84 a piece at my dealer



Tools Needed

-Grease Gun
-Torque Wrench
-Breaker Bar/Impact Gun
-27mm Socket
-17mm Wrench or Socket
-14mm Wrench or Socket
-Bearing cup or socket big enough to drive out/install the bearings (I used a 36mm)
-Snap Ring Pliers
-Hammer
-Small Flat Head Screwdriver
-Propane torch
-Punch Set
-Small Wire Brush



NOTE: Before you get started its best to put the bearings in the freezer for a few hours or overnight as this will help with the install of the bearings later on.



-Remove your tire to access the hub

-Pry the hub cover off with a small flat head screwdriver



-Using a small punch pound out locking ring on the hub nut



-Using a breaker bar or impact gun with a 27mm socket, take off the hub nut



-Slide the hub off



-Now that the hub is off you can take out the 2 bolts that hold the knuckle on. The head of the bolt is 14mm and the nut is 17mm.



-Slide the knuckle off the axle shaft. (Take the caps off the end of the knuckle where the bolts go through so you dont lose them). This is also a good time to inspect/clean your knuckle bushings and pins!! Mine were just replaced about 100-150 miles ago.



-Using your snap ring pliers remove the snap ring that holds the bearing in place. Might need a small screwdriver to help get the snap ring out.



-Place the knuckle in a vice with the snap ring side facing down. Make sure there is clearance for the bearing to come through the bottom.

-Using a torch, heat the knuckle up surrrounding the bearing. This will take a few minutes because aluminum dissipates heat fairly quick. I knew mine was hot enough when steam started coming out from the inside of the bearing.



-When its good and hot place your bearing cup/socket on the bearing and hammer it through. Its should come out fairly easy. If not use more heat.



-Now that the bearing is out its time to clean the rust and grime out of the bearing housing with a small wire brush or Scotch Brite pad. Try and get the rust and grease out of the snap ring groove too. I also cleaned my knuckle up real good while I was at it.



-Take your bearing out of the freezer and heat the knuckle up good and hot again. Center the bearing over the housing and tap the bearing back in until its flush with the top of the knuckle. (Make sure you go around the whole bearing so you dont get the bearing crooked in the housing and DO NOT hit the bearing in the center. Hit the outer race of the bearing to drive it in)



Once its flush with the top of the knuckle use a punch to tap it in the rest of the way. Again make sure you're hitting the outer race. When its all the way in the snap ring groove will be visible.





-Re-install the snap ring. Make sure its all the way seated by tapping all around it. (I didn't take a picture with the new bearing installed but you get the point)



-Re-install knuckle. I installed the bottom bolt first, slid the axle shaft back through, and then the top bolt. Tighten bolts to 32 ft. lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just snug them up good with a 1/2" drive ratchet. Make sure you remember to put the bushing caps back on!!



-Re-install hub and tighten the hub nut to 145 ft.lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench just tighten it up real good until the factory indent on the hub nut matches up to the notch in the axle shaft. Or if you have new ones just wrench them on real tight.



-Using a small punch tap the locking part of the nut back into the notch on the axle shaft. Like I said earlier, you might need new hub nuts.



-Re-install hub nut cap

-Grease knuckle bushings



-Put the tire back on and you're done!!

Remember, heat is your friend with this project!!
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Great writeup...
Thank you for the detailed pics, tips and instructions !
This is the way to show and help out a fellow rider!
Thank You again :You_Rock_Emoticon:
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Awesome job on the writeup. thanks
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be VERY careful applying heat to the aluminum knuckle! if you have a shop press, or know someone who does, you can very easily press the old one out and the new one in without heating or freezing anything.
great write up and pictures, my only other suggestion would have been to disassemble and clean the knuckle bushings very thoroughly. i grease mine very regularly and they are still nasty every time i disassemble them.
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I used a press when I took my front one out because I didnt wanna take a chance of busting anything. Even though I think the front hub is cast iron? Not sure. But very good write up but like Hammer said be careful with the heat!
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Thanks for the comments and suggestions guys!! :singing:

Definitely use a press if you have access to one but this is basically for someone who doesn't have access to a press. Regarding the heat, IMO, as long as you use a propane/mapp torch you're not gonna mess anything up. They just don't really get hot enough to hurt anything. I've been doing it this way for a long time and never had a problem. Not saying that you can't mess something up but it would be very unlikely. Now an oxy/acetylene torch you would have to be very careful because they burn HOT!! I wouldn't recommend using one of them unless you know what your doing. But heat is definitely the key to doing this job without a press.

Yeah it's definitely a good time to re-grease/inspect the bushings and pins. I just did mine about 150 miles ago so I didn't even think about putting that in there. I'll see if I can still edit my post.
Thanks Wrekd! THAT'S an awesome tutorial!!! Id even feel comfortable doing something I've never tried with that kind of post.

---- Kev.......
Sent from a natsosmahtfone
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I just found this info. Does anyone know if the front and rear bearings are the same on a 03 660?
So how do you know if they need replacing ?


Sine i have had mine i have never done this... So Im guessing that mine probably needs to be done... Gah this thing is an endless money pit... I think it might be worse than my wife and kid !!!!

wrekd awesome write up brother !!! Are doing the fronts done the same way...

PS

You just added some more items to my shopping list... My wife is gonna lose it !!! Im blaming this all on u !!! LOL :s_laugh:
I'm not sure they need replacing but I'm sure they will soon. It's an 03 and if I don't stay ahead of it it will be an 03 piece of junk. As for blaming it on me, STAND IN LINE BROTHER......That's why I'm asking, the KOYO bearings from Kawasaki are far less expensive if they fit both front and rear.
Great pics and tutorial! It is very nice that you included a close up of the bearing numbers (Koyo 3055W) as these are often missing in other tutorials. Somebody can use that info to cross reference a more standard bearing at a bearing supply shop.
I also have no concerns in using a propane torch to heat aluminum bodies. I have been doing it for over 20 years on motorcycle swing arms.
Just one question, though - Are there any seals on that hub?? It just seems odd if there are none. The front hub on my 450 Kodiak had a seal on each side...
I just found this info. Does anyone know if the front and rear bearings are the same on a 03 660?
Yep, they're the same. Only 02 660's use a different setup

So how do you know if they need replacing ?

Sine i have had mine i have never done this... So Im guessing that mine probably needs to be done... Gah this thing is an endless money pit... I think it might be worse than my wife and kid !!!!

wrekd awesome write up brother !!! Are doing the fronts done the same way...

PS

You just added some more items to my shopping list... My wife is gonna lose it !!! Im blaming this all on u !!! LOL :s_laugh:
Jack the front end up and by grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock wiggle it back and forth to check for play. The fronts are a little more involved but you would remove the bearing pretty much the same way.

Just tell her its all my fault. I'm far enough away that she can't hurt me, I think...lol

Great pics and tutorial! It is very nice that you included a close up of the bearing numbers (Koyo 3055W) as these are often missing in other tutorials. Somebody can use that info to cross reference a more standard bearing at a bearing supply shop.
I also have no concerns in using a propane torch to heat aluminum bodies. I have been doing it for over 20 years on motorcycle swing arms.
Just one question, though - Are there any seals on that hub?? It just seems odd if there are none. The front hub on my 450 Kodiak had a seal on each side...
Nope, no seals.
Could a mod title this 03+ 660 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement?? I forgot 02's used a different setup. Don't want anyone getting confused and ordering the wrong parts.
FWIW - The process and the parts are the same on a 2006 Kodiak 450i. The only thing that I would add is that you may have to heat up the axle nut to remove it. I had to get mine almost red to get it off with a 1/2" electric impact gun. After 20 minutes or so, it finally came off!
Well I started this project today.... everything was going good until the old bearing came apart..... I decided not to buy the 36mm socket. I thought I could just use a punch and get it out... Well that didnt work now the bearing is stuck in there so I guess ill go and get a 36mm socket and see if I can get the rest out if that dont work IDK what hell ima do...

Moral of this story is just do it like the guy says since he knows more than you cuz he has already done it!!!! Hints why he did a thread and write up on how to do it !!!


Man some times my dumba$$ness surprises even me !!!
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Well I went to lowes paid the 8 bucks fer the 36mm socket... And what do you know both rear bearings out new bearings in !

Lesson learned !!

Question: I hate to do this because i hate it when students I teach dont know nomenclature but i just dont know what they are called....

They look like roll pins kinda ... There are 2 on each end and they go in the knuckle on each end... If no one know what Im talking about ill take a pic.. But I just need the name of them and a part number if you got it because mine are shot and i need new ones...
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are you referring to the knuckle bushings? the pieces that the bolts pass thru? those are a common failure item and you can either do the stock replacement or, i believe, BVC racing makes an upgrade.
items # 40 and 41?
2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 YFM660FS Parts, 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 YFM660FS OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com
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I think thats what he's referring to...lol...I think with BVC's kit you have to drill the knuckle out for there's to work. There's another company on Ebay that makes a kit too. Here's a link:

REAR BUSHING KITS GRIZZLY RHINO 450 660 700 | eBay

Hell of a lot cheaper then stock stuff and might even last longer.
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are you referring to the knuckle bushings? the pieces that the bolts pass thru? those are a common failure item and you can either do the stock replacement or, i believe, BVC racing makes an upgrade.
items # 40 and 41?
2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 YFM660FS Parts, 2004 Yamaha Grizzly 660 YFM660FS OEM Parts - BikeBandit.com
Yea I think that is it. It looks really short in the pic tho??? And man this aint gonna be cheap is it ?

I think thats what he's referring to...lol...I think with BVC's kit you have to drill the knuckle out for there's to work. There's another company on Ebay that makes a kit too. Here's a link:

REAR BUSHING KITS GRIZZLY RHINO 450 660 700 | eBay

Hell of a lot cheaper then stock stuff and might even last longer.
Those look like what i need but that would run me about 140 bucks for fronts and rears !!!!!!
90381-17067-00 BUSH, SOLID $3.91
3JN-23517-00-00 COVER, THRUST 1 $4.53
5KM-23448-00-00 SPACER $7.90

If I ordered those items x4 on all that would cover one side correct ?

Estimated Order Total: $116.26 !?!?!?! OMG!!!!

The grizz is gonna get me divorced
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