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How To: Change Coolant (660)

99328 Views 33 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  nlschoneberger
I have seen guys asking questions about this kinda stuff before, so someone will get use out of this kinda info.

Changing your cooling system coolant.

Tools and items: Basic sockets, a long extension, a screwdriver, channel lock/water pump pliers, big bottomed drain pan, Coolant

Time: 1-2 hours (+ time to run to town if you are testing your rad cap)

Difficulty: Easy, just takes time to fully flush out the system

Application: All Years Grizzly 660

Warning - Do not attempt if engine is warm - hot. If the engine is warm, your coolant system may be pressured, and dangerous to open. Start quad, move it to your work location, shut it off (MINIMAL run time)
- Animals love the taste of antifreeze, unless you have a neighbors dog you dont like dispose of it properly as it is poisonous.

Step - 1: Remove the front rack by removing the two bolts in the top of the bumper, the two fender support bolts, and the two rearward bolts (need a long extension).

- 2: Remove (or pop up if you have snorkels routed through it) the front "hood" by removing the two bolts in the rear outer corners, the popping it off.

- 3: Remove the rad cap by depressing, and twisting as indicated on the cap.

- 4: Remove the seat and drivers side engine cover.

- 5: Remove the drivers side wheel well/floor board by removing the 4 bolts (You may choose to put some type of penetrating oil on them) in the bottom of the floor board, and the 6 phillips head bolts + lock nuts holding the wheel well to the fender.

- 6: Remove the plastic cover that is around the pull start by removing the 4 bolts. (long extension needed)

- 7: Locate the water pump.

- 8: There is only about 1.8Liters (1.9 US quarts) so you don't need a deep drain pan, but with the weight of the water coming out of the small drain hole it can squirt around 4 feet away from the drain hole, requiring a large bottom drain pan (or multiple small one's).
Remove the drain bolt (be careful to not loose the small copper washer).

- 9: Drain the coolant over flow tank by removing the suck back hose, and flush out the tank.

- 10: Take a look at the coolant you drained from your system, if it is clean like mine you can simply flush the old coolant out of the system. If it is full of dirty junk, you will want to now use a cooling system cleaner that is safe for aluminum engines and rads (follow instructions on bottle)

My system is clean so i can skip using a cleaner, and continue onto step 11.

- 11: Flush the old coolant out of the system. Put the drain plug back in(7.2 ft • lb) and fill the rad full of water using a garden hose. Put rad cap back on.

- 12: Run the engine for a minute or two to help the water mix with any coolant left in the system. Then remove the cap, and drain the water/coolant out again by removing the drain bolt.

- 13: To help make sure there is nothing blocking any of the passages in your rad i removed the upper rad hose from the rad and forced water into the rad from that location using a garden hose.

Also try forcing water into the upper rad hose to help clean out the engine.

- 14: Put the upper rad hose back on, and using the garden hose add water to the rad while letting it drain out to help clean any old coolant or any possible junk out of the system.

If the water coming out of the drain still contain junk, Repeat steps 10 to 14 (using more cooling system cleaner).
If the water is still colored from the old coolant, repeat steps 11 to 14.

- 15: It is a good idea to go to a local lube shop and get your rad cap pressure tested. 13.5 to 17.8 PSI is the recommended pressure that the cap should hold. If it does not hold 13.5 PSI, replace cap (local shop should have one of that size in stock) TEST YOUR NEW CAP! Just because its new, does not mean it will hold the pressure it is rated for.
Also pick up some antifreeze. I went with Prestone Premixed (no mixing required) antifreeze/coolant.

- 16: Put drain bolt(7.2 ft • lb) back into the water pump, and hook the suck back hose back onto the over flow tank.

- 17: Fill the rad (the system) with your coolant. It will take about 1.8 L , but in the end we want the system to be FULL (not including the overflow tank).

I used a old 600ML bottle to pour the coolant, allowing me to keep track of how much i have added just for personal reference.

Fill the over flow tank to the "Full line".

- 18: Start you grizz, and let it warm up. You will see bubbles coming out if the rad. This is air being purged from the system. Add more coolant as needed to keep the rad full. Try squeezing one of the rad hoses slightly, or giving the grizz a bit of throttle to help purge the system.

- 19: Put the rad cap back on and allow the grizz to continue to run to get it warm. Add to the over flow tank as needed. Once your engine cools down, you may also have to add more to the over flow tank.

- 20: Reassemble your rack and covers in reverse order that you disassembled them.

It can be recommended that you go on a quick ride to let the quad warm up again and suck back liquid. When the engine cools off again the over flow take may have gone down again, fill up to the full line as needed.

The next ride or two you may need to top up the overflow tank a bit again.

You probably don't have to flush the system out as thorough as i did, but i want to make sure i get the best performance out of my system, while not having to flush it out again for a few years.

Good luck!

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Even thou I can't see the photo's (photobucket is blocked at my place of employment) you've written another great tech article dude :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

And I'm sure the photo's are & will be a great help (I'll check'em out tonite when I get home) .... :)
Thank you for posting this awesome tutorial. I really appreciate the time you took to show the step by step instructions with the photos.

I noticed you used Pre-mixed Prestone Antifreeze in your application. With so many different brands, etc. on the market these days, I was told to ask if this is the "new" or the "old" type of antifreeze?

Thanks in advance for any responses to this question.

Welcome to GR, fellow Texan! From my experience when people talk about "new" and "old" type antifreeze, they are referring to green ethylene glycol (old) and orange propylene glycol (new). The "new" propylene glycol antifreeze lasts much longer but is chemically incompatible with ethylene glycol and the two should never be mixed. The Grizzlies come with the green ethylene glycol antifreeze and, unless you flush the crud out of it (repeat steps 11 - 14 until YOU are green), you should just continue to use the green ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Oh, one thing I would like to add to Robs great he mentioned, animals love the sweet taste of ethylene glycol but it is highly toxic so, if you spill any, be sure to rinse it away really well...even a small puddle is enough to kill (it only takes about 4 oz. [118 ml] to be lethal to an average size human).
Thanks so much for your reply Diz. I was told you were the expert on the 2002 so am doubly glad you chimed in here. That was exactly the type of thing my hubby will want to hear. I'll be sure to give YOU (and Rob, of course) the credit.

I read about the warning for animals and antifreeze and have 2 dogs, so appreciate the reminder as well.
Welcome to GR, fellow Texan! From my experience when people talk about "new" and "old" type antifreeze, they are referring to green ethylene glycol (old) and orange propylene glycol (new). The "new" propylene glycol antifreeze lasts much longer but is chemically incompatible with ethylene glycol and the two should never be mixed. The Grizzlies come with the green ethylene glycol antifreeze and, unless you flush the crud out of it (repeat steps 11 - 14 until YOU are green), you should just continue to use the green ethylene glycol antifreeze.

Oh, one thing I would like to add to Robs great he mentioned, animals love the sweet taste of ethylene glycol but it is highly toxic so, if you spill any, be sure to rinse it away really well...even a small puddle is enough to kill (it only takes about 4 oz. [118 ml] to be lethal to an average size human).
Thanks Diz - next time I'm slurping up a puddle on the ground, I'll double check for anti freeze with my refractometer............rotfl

Just kidding!

Nice write up Rob!
let's not forget coolant additives or replacements like Water Wetter & Engine Ice!
Somehow, I can see you doing that, you animal :laugh1: Glad you took the warning to heart, hate to have to take you to the Vet.
Great writeup. Extra notes for the 770/550.

Coolant capacity is 2.1 quarts and reservior capacity is 0.25 quarts.

When refilling the system there is a water pump air bleed out bolt located above the coolant drain bolt. That needs to be loosened without removing when filling the system and tightened when coolant starts to come out.

After that, there is a cylinder head air bleed bolt you do the same thing with.

After you have filled the system with these steps, then continue with the engine start step.
Excellent post!
I would also like to add that the overall design and procedures are pretty much identical for my '00 Kodiak 400 so this write-up cover's multiple model's...
Thank's for sharing
Good additions, Upstate! Kinda funny that this thread is getting way more attention now than it did 8 months ago when Rob posted it LOL. Thanks for the nice resurrection, picked a good one.
8 months ago it was 10 freaking degrees out, nobody cared. Now that it is in the upper 90s, overheating is an issue.
A friend of ours has the same model of Grizzly (2002) only his is Camo. He was out riding with us this weekend and I heard him talking about how he needed to not ride so slow (we were trying to keep the dust to a minimum as we rode down the road). He said he had problems with overheating.

That's one of the main reasons that my hubby was wondering about what kind of antifreeze to use.

Just a bit of history ....

When we changed the oil on the Grizzly last week, it was God-awful black and both of us were appalled (we change the oil on our Arctic Cats about every other month and rarely is it even the least bit dirty) and decided then that we really needed to do a complete checkup and change out of fluids. The Grizzly belonged to the fella mentioned above's father and he wrecked it a few years ago. Ran it into a tree and messed up the bumper and handle bars, but was most upset because his daughter was riding with him and she broke her hip. He took it back to the other son's house and they've basically just run it around on the farm for the pasts few years. The other son recently bought a brand new Rzr and sold the Grizzly to us to make room for his new toy.

I'm glad I posted on this subject and that it's been brought back to the top. Overheating can't be a good thing and with our Texas heat here, we have to be proactive on things like this. We only get 3 days of winter around here. :chillin:
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Since there was damage to the bike originally - I would make sure the fan is operating properly.

next I would pressure wash the radiator (preferably from the back twords the front to remove
any caked up mud, dirt, ect. that could cause an overheating problem.

Next - I would suggest adding some Water Wetter additive to the coolant to help keep the bike running as cool as possible.
If all this doesn't help than I would go deeper and inspect the waterpump for proper operation..........

Good Luck and Welcome to the GR Forum!
Excellent suggestions!! When hubby gets home from work I'll have him read this whole thread.

We used to ride Yamahas over 25 years ago when it was 3 wheelers and dirt bikes. Then came kids.... need I say more....

When we got back to the mud, once those kids started having kids of their own, our first 4 wheeler was a 2001 Arctic Cat 300. When hubby bought his 2006 Arctic Cat 650 H1, I got handed down the 300. I've loved that wheeler and babied it. Only thing I didn't like was having to shift gears manually. Otherwise, it would climb a tree in a heartbeat. When he told me about the Grizzly and all the cool features it had, automatic.... pushbutton 4 wheel drive, etc.... I didn't even have to see it to know I'd love it.

After riding it this past weekend, I know I am going to enjoy it a whole lot. Hubby has already mentioned that he sees much more confidence in my riding on the Grizzly. The fact that it's got a higher center and a wider ride makes a whole lot of difference in my riding world. :)

Thank you all for such a warm welcome. I appreciate you guys being here and know I'll be picking your brains. I'm really glad I found this place and am so glad that if I have questions I can come here to get good answers.
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I think Jack gave you excellent suggestions for the cooling issue. Also, does the Grizzly have the heat kit installed? There are several components to this kit but the two biggies are a foam rubber insulation mat glued to the bottom of the gas tank (easily seen if you remove the tank cover plastic) and the "sharks gills" side panels. If either or both of these items is missing, it is worth getting them. The panels can be gotten new or from eBay (sometimes there available...sometimes you have to watch for a while). The insulation mat can either be purchased with a used gas tank or gotten new.

Since you don't know the complete history of this bike (you were already surprised by the oil), I'd do a careful once-over on the whole quad. Here are some suggested things to check / look for:
Any overly rusted pieces
Anything loose
Missing bolts, straps, and clamps
Check all the CV boots, ball joint boots and tie-rod boots. Also do some jerking on all of those to make sure they are not worn out or improperly tightened (the tie rod ends are known to get to pull the cotter pin, and verify torque then replace pin)
Oil leaks around all seals (front diff axle and drive shaft seals, rear drive axles and drive shaft, the seals where the middle drive shaft (inside the engine) comes out of the front and rear of the engine to connect with the drive shafts, seal on the shaft under the pull starter (just remove plastic cover then the pull starter / will probably find that needs cleaning inside as well)

Also, some maintenance items commonly overlooked:
Grease the front drive shaft. The U-joints need to be greased and the splined connectors also need grease. If you jack the front of the quad up, you can then remove the bolts that hold the front differential in place...pull the diff up a little and away from the engine. This should allow you to get the drive shaft out. Once out, it is a LOT easier to get to the zerk fittings on the U-joints and you can clean and grease the splined ends of the shaft as well as the connectors on the diff and engine that they mate with.
Same thing on the rear drive shaft...same procedure just no U-joints.
The OEM air filter sux! If it still has it, consider an upgrade...check my garage for a custom adapter to use a really nice clamp-on K&N that solves the possible leaking seal issue with the OEM design.
Clean & disconnect (in that order) every electrical connection you can find and, before putting it back together, put a glob of dielectric grease on every connection and also on the rubber seal.
Check the wheel bearings for looseness.
CVT cleaning and re-greasing...people are really bad about not doing this one and it's a good idea to verify everything in your CVT is OK (like the belt). Speaking of which, I strongly suggest using only genuine Yamaha belts.

Gotta make the drive to the casa but, if I think of anything else (likely), I'll post it up.

You got yourself an excellent machine...I love the hell out of my '02 660 and I am sure you will love yours too. Congrats on a great quad!
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I also have an 02 660 and the key is keeping the radiator cleaned. They don't make it easy to do. It is very easy to miss the corners of the radiator or even not get all the mud and dust out from inside the fins. You don't need high pressure and if you use it, make sure you don't bend the fins closed.

Some checks you may want to do.
- Flush the radiator with a garden hose like Jack said from the back to the front, then from the front to the back.
- Flush it again.
- Flush it again. (I've spent over 2 hours cleaning my radiator and came back the next day to give it one last flush and still got brown water from it.
-If you got bent fins, try to straighten them out. Yamaha did a great job of sizing the radiator so it barely provides sufficient cooling.

Some "low" cost options to help would be like Jack said adding Water Wetter or replacing the coolant with Engine Ice. Another would be to add an in-line fin cooler.

If money isn't a problem two other solutions could be to relocate the radiator to on top the front rack like a lot of swamp buggies have it or replace the stock radiator with a High Lifter Triple Flow radiator.

All of these options are nice, but none will work if you don't keep the radiator clean. If you don't ride mud, but ride dusty trials, the dust will slowly build up in the radiator too.
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Good stuff from is a bit tedious, even if you remove the front plastic (fenders) but it's often overlooked or underdone.

Knew I would think of something else...
Check all of the breather lines/tubes for being there, being connected properly, not being kinked, and not having holes/cuts. There are breather tubes on the front differential and rear drive (they tie together near the rear of the gas tank with a "T" connector), one from the radiator fan (also end near the back of the tank), and a big one on the crankcase that runs up to a connector on the horn of the air filter box cover.

EDIT: Aha...another thing; on the front air intake plenum (tube) for the CVT, there is a small vinyl "cup" that clamps on to a nib at the bottom of the plenum...about 2/3 of the way to the CVT. Make sure it is there, in good condition, tight, and has its little spring clamp. If it gone or leaky, you will get water in your CVT in relatively shallow water crossings. There is also a very similar "cup" on the bottom of the air box near the rear...check it too.
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I apologize for the delay in responding here. I'd like to thank all of you that chimed in with help on the coolant issues on my Grizzly, and for your suggestions on things to check out. We're checking them off one at a time.

We got the coolant flushed out and replaced it and added the Water Wetter (?) stuff. Rode it this past weekend and it stayed much cooler than the previous weekend. It does seem to ride hotter than the Arctic Cat 300 that I have ridden for the past 2 years, but I've been told that the motor is twice the size and positioned differently. Just means longer shorts for me! :laugh1:

We've noticed that the muffler is quite noisy and hubby is wondering if it can be repacked to minimize the noise.
Stock muffler noisy?
Hmmm...I am like 99.99999% sure that the stock muffler has mechanical baffles and no packing. Does it have the original spark arrestor tip?

EDIT: Check the first and third pics in my garage to see what the stock muffler and tip look like.
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