Yes, the original arrestor tip is there.
I was hoping to change out the rad coolant this morning, and I was going to re-use the rad cap and stay with the thermostat on this occasion. Due to my location, It may be some time before I can get to a yamaha dealer to get the new rad cap and thermostat. And as long as just doing a coolant flush and fill it works on the short term, I can get those new parts and change out the fluids and parts, when I get the parts to do it.While your at it replace the thermostat and rad cap for a like new cooling system. Its only a few bucks more and youll know your good to go.
When I read your post I gather that you broke the bolt... If so, be very careful in removing the broken piece. If your not comfortable in doing the extraction. See if you can find someone who can do it without damaging the threads for the bolt hole. If needed go to an atv shop or machine shop and pay the nickels and dimes to have it done so that you can use the bolt thread home again when you change the thermostat.What happins if you break a bolt on the water pump
Thank you for posting this, great read and I am sure it will make the job go much faster.I have seen guys asking questions about this kinda stuff before, so someone will get use out of this kinda info.
Changing your cooling system coolant.
Tools and items: Basic sockets, a long extension, a screwdriver, channel lock/water pump pliers, big bottomed drain pan, Coolant
Time: 1-2 hours (+ time to run to town if you are testing your rad cap)
Difficulty: Easy, just takes time to fully flush out the system
Application: All Years Grizzly 660
Warning - Do not attempt if engine is warm - hot. If the engine is warm, your coolant system may be pressured, and dangerous to open. Start quad, move it to your work location, shut it off (MINIMAL run time)
- Animals love the taste of antifreeze, unless you have a neighbors dog you dont like dispose of it properly as it is poisonous.
Step - 1: Remove the front rack by removing the two bolts in the top of the bumper, the two fender support bolts, and the two rearward bolts (need a long extension).
- 2: Remove (or pop up if you have snorkels routed through it) the front "hood" by removing the two bolts in the rear outer corners, the popping it off.
- 3: Remove the rad cap by depressing, and twisting as indicated on the cap.
- 4: Remove the seat and drivers side engine cover.
- 5: Remove the drivers side wheel well/floor board by removing the 4 bolts (You may choose to put some type of penetrating oil on them) in the bottom of the floor board, and the 6 phillips head bolts + lock nuts holding the wheel well to the fender.
- 6: Remove the plastic cover that is around the pull start by removing the 4 bolts. (long extension needed)
- 7: Locate the water pump.
- 8: There is only about 1.8Liters (1.9 US quarts) so you don't need a deep drain pan, but with the weight of the water coming out of the small drain hole it can squirt around 4 feet away from the drain hole, requiring a large bottom drain pan (or multiple small one's).
Remove the drain bolt (be careful to not loose the small copper washer).
- 9: Drain the coolant over flow tank by removing the suck back hose, and flush out the tank.
- 10: Take a look at the coolant you drained from your system, if it is clean like mine you can simply flush the old coolant out of the system. If it is full of dirty junk, you will want to now use a cooling system cleaner that is safe for aluminum engines and rads (follow instructions on bottle)
My system is clean so i can skip using a cleaner, and continue onto step 11.
- 11: Flush the old coolant out of the system. Put the drain plug back in(7.2 ft â€¢ lb) and fill the rad full of water using a garden hose. Put rad cap back on.
- 12: Run the engine for a minute or two to help the water mix with any coolant left in the system. Then remove the cap, and drain the water/coolant out again by removing the drain bolt.
- 13: To help make sure there is nothing blocking any of the passages in your rad i removed the upper rad hose from the rad and forced water into the rad from that location using a garden hose.
Also try forcing water into the upper rad hose to help clean out the engine.
- 14: Put the upper rad hose back on, and using the garden hose add water to the rad while letting it drain out to help clean any old coolant or any possible junk out of the system.
If the water coming out of the drain still contain junk, Repeat steps 10 to 14 (using more cooling system cleaner).
If the water is still colored from the old coolant, repeat steps 11 to 14.
- 15: It is a good idea to go to a local lube shop and get your rad cap pressure tested. 13.5 to 17.8 PSI is the recommended pressure that the cap should hold. If it does not hold 13.5 PSI, replace cap (local shop should have one of that size in stock) TEST YOUR NEW CAP! Just because its new, does not mean it will hold the pressure it is rated for.
Also pick up some antifreeze. I went with Prestone Premixed (no mixing required) antifreeze/coolant.
- 16: Put drain bolt(7.2 ft â€¢ lb) back into the water pump, and hook the suck back hose back onto the over flow tank.
- 17: Fill the rad (the system) with your coolant. It will take about 1.8 L , but in the end we want the system to be FULL (not including the overflow tank).
I used a old 600ML bottle to pour the coolant, allowing me to keep track of how much i have added just for personal reference.
Fill the over flow tank to the "Full line".
- 18: Start you grizz, and let it warm up. You will see bubbles coming out if the rad. This is air being purged from the system. Add more coolant as needed to keep the rad full. Try squeezing one of the rad hoses slightly, or giving the grizz a bit of throttle to help purge the system.
- 19: Put the rad cap back on and allow the grizz to continue to run to get it warm. Add to the over flow tank as needed. Once your engine cools down, you may also have to add more to the over flow tank.
- 20: Reassemble your rack and covers in reverse order that you disassembled them.
It can be recommended that you go on a quick ride to let the quad warm up again and suck back liquid. When the engine cools off again the over flow take may have gone down again, fill up to the full line as needed.
The next ride or two you may need to top up the overflow tank a bit again.
You probably don't have to flush the system out as thorough as i did, but i want to make sure i get the best performance out of my system, while not having to flush it out again for a few years.