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"Diz"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
GrizzlyMan660 asked how to remove the engine from a 660 and I went ahead and created a new thread so we would hijack the original one.

GMan, if you look at this pic from my garage, you will be able to see a bit of what you'll be looking at when everything is out of the way.


Note that it is almost impossible to get the engine out with the front wheels on so you will need to support the frame with blocks or an ATV jack like I have in the pic. You will also need to remove pretty much everything from the engine...hoses, carb, wires & connectors. You will also have to pull the front and rear drive shafts by removing the front diff mounting bolts and rear drive mounting bolts and pulling the diff & drive out enough to get the shafts out.

Once that is all done, decide if you want to remove the CVT cover. When I yanked the engine from the wife's grizz, I did because I needed to clean / rebuild the CVT anyway. Doing so also has the advantage of getting the cover out of harms way and, if you pull the primary sheaves, gives you the primary shaft as an extra handle for guiding the engine out.

To do the actual pulling, it takes at least two people unless your pretty darn burly (I did it but I liked to put a serious hurt on myself). Unbolt all 4 engine mounts from the engine side. If you have an engine hoist or similar, you can use it to lift the engine out of it's mounts and then unbolt the mounts from the frame (they get in the way). If you don't have a hoist, you will have to man-handle the front off the engine up and then block it or strap it up to the frame so you can get the mounts out and then do the same in the rear.
Once the mounts are out of the way, the entire engine/tranny assembly has to be rotated so that the cylinder gos down and the tranny end goes up in order to fit through the side of the frame. This can be tricky. Again, if your burley enough, you can just grab it, rotate, and pull it out but, it's over 150 lbs so, it ain't easy. A better option might be to run two pipes or 2x2 boards through the frame and strap them to the front and back of the engine. You could then have two people, one on each end of the pair of pipes lift the engine with the pipes, rotate it, and slide it out one side. A third person to help guide / coax the engine out would be a bonus.

To put it back in, reverse the procedure. Keep in mind that you will have to block or strap the engine up in the frame so you can re-attach the mounts to the engine after it is in the frame and then lower it back down to attach the frame-to-mount bolts. Don't completely tighten any of the mount bolts until they are all in and just snugged down...then torque to proper specs.
 

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G-Man
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2,466 Posts
ok ya im thinking of doing this but im also thinking of getting a 700 if i dont get a frame but im leaning towards a 700 anyway cuz i need something with eps for the rocks and the torgure for pulling logs and speed to race at H/M with the guys on the straight aways well thanks for the info and pics
 

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A Cut Above The Rest !!!
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3,206 Posts
All that writ'in for him to tell ya he's gonna get a 700 ?? ....... :wow:


Excellent write-up there Dizzy dude !!!! :clap:
 

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G-Man
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2,466 Posts
what when he told me about this i was thinking of keepin the 660 and rebuilding it!!
 

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Alright so I picked up a 2005 660 grizzly for a bit of nothing that runs, but blows a cloud of smoke to high heaven. This is going to be my first time tearing an engine apart and I would like some advice. First of all do I need to remove the engine from the frame or can I get to the top without removing it from the frame and secondly would a top end rebuild fix the problem I described?
 

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Alright so I picked up a 2005 660 grizzly for a bit of nothing that runs, but blows a cloud of smoke to high heaven. This is going to be my first time tearing an engine apart and I would like some advice. First of all do I need to remove the engine from the frame or can I get to the top without removing it from the frame and secondly would a top end rebuild fix the problem I described?
You don’t need to remove the engine for the top end... but if you end up like me you’ll buy all your parts spend plenty of time cleaning, prepping, and work to replace the top end only to find that the rod race for the piston pin is toast and you need to pull and split the engine anyway to replace the rod as well... just be prepared bud. Hoping for the best for you just keep my miserable situation in mind. And do yourself a favor and keep a good rag stuffed tight in the block around the rod to keep debris out. GOOD LUCK!!!
 
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