Tech Tip: Grizzly Bearing Replacement
I'm going to attempt to put together a writeup with pictures for the replacement of Yamaha Grizzly's front bearings. It's more or less a series of pictures with the order in which to remove the parts. It's what I found easiest, and not necessarily the correct way, but it worked.
The first step is to remove the tire and then remove the black cap over the hub. Then reinstall the wheel and put the quad back on the ground. Next, use a punch to straighten out the nut so it will be able to spin free. Removing this bolt was the toughest part of the whole process for me. I recommend a good impact wrench with some serious torque. My freebie Crapsman one didn't cut the mustard.
Once the bolt is removed. You can remove the tire and you should see this.
Next I found it helpful to remove the lower bolt that holds the shock to the a-arm. Lift it up out of your way. You can use some zipties, or rope whichever you have handy.
It should come out rather easily. I suggest using a rubber mallet so that you don't chew up the threads knocking the bolt out.
Here's the reason I removed the shock. The next step is to undo this allen head bolt that holds the brake line in place. You need to lift the hold suspension up so the bolt clears the a-arm. If the suspension is hanging the bolt will hit the a-arm and not come out.
Next, remove the two 12 mm bolts that hold the brake caliper on.
Once the caliper is free, move it up and out of your way.
Now the wheel studs/disc brake assembley will slide right off.
Remove the cotter pin and then the bolt for this tie rod end, which is part of the steering system.
I was able to remove this tie rod end with a rubber mallet. If you have a puller thats small enough, use that.
Remove the cotter pin, nut, and bolt that holds the bottem ball joint into the steering knuckle.
I was able to break this loose again by using a rubber mallet and hitting lower a-arm.
All thats left is the top ball joint. At this point, you can pull the axle out of the steering knuckle and move it to the side.
Remove the cotter and bolt to this ball joint.
This was a tough ball joint to break loose. I used this pitman arm puller which work well. If I could find one just a hair smaller it would make this whole process even more simple. *NOTE* remeber to reinstall the nut so it is flush. This will prevent the puller from screwing up the threads.
And here we are with the knuckle free from the Grizzly.
Finally we can get a look at the bearings. First you must remove the circlip.
Once the circlip is removed, if you have a press handy you're almost done.
I removed the inner race to sneak a peak. It wasn't all that rusty. There was still a good amount of grease.
But when I pulled the bearings out, the whatever it's called...crumbled apart.
So...what did I do from here. You have two options. Beat the bearings and races out of the knuckles with a hammer and socket or take them to the dealer and have them pressed into place. Here's another important note. When you begin to reistall the knuckles onto the Grizzly, make sure you place some WHITE LITHIUM GREASE on the bearings outer most part. (refer to picture with the circlip removal). Reason being, is when you go to reinstall the axle through the knuckle it will be metal to metal contact. I thought I had the wrong bearings until I read the manual. Once I lubed them up, the axle slid right through. Install everything in the reverse order that you removed them and torque all the bolts down.
One last note. Once I had everything together, the right wheel spun beautifully. Whereas the left side was kind of chunky in the way it turned. Felt like it was dragging. Luckily I found that this is normal for a Grizzly. And there you go...new bearings!