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This is my grizzly snorkel v2.0. This is the second one i have done this way and I've perfected it to work great. I will try to list what all is used and post what pics I have. Any questions please ask, and if anyone would just rather me just put a kit together and ship it I can do that to.
1.5" radiator flex hose w/90 at one end (autozone stocks them. Can get p/n if needed)
2x 30" 1.5" radiator flexible hose
1 2" fernco rubber coupler
4 female 1.5" threaded adapters
1 1.5" 90*
4 1.5" barbed fittings
1.5" barbed hose mender
1 2" 90* (male threads on one end with slip fit 2" female on other end)
2 2" conduit nuts
2 2" standard slip fit 90
1 2" 45
1 2" 22.5* coupler
3 2" threaded adapter
2 2" barbed fittings
For the risers you will need to start with 1 2" male threaded adapter and 2 1.5" male threaded adapters. From there it's just a matter of preference as to what you want your risers to look like.
I'll start with the trans in:
It's easy, basically just remove the factory snorkel pipe from the rubber coupler. Leave the original rubber coupler on the tranny. Cut a section out of your fernco connector ( I like to cut the middle out, then cut it in 1/2. This gives you 2 2.5" od x 2" Id x roughly 1" width. One we use now, the other later) put your piece of fernco in the original rubber coupler. It basically works as a reducer. This is actually the trans exhaust but it gives you an idea of how to cut it. View attachment 5713
After the fernco goes in you will slip one of the 1.5" female threaded adapters into the coupler. Get a new hose clamp (the original yamaha one won't tighten down enough) and tighten it down good. Then thread one of the 1.5" barbed fittings into the adapter and slip your radiator hose with a 90 on the end onto the barbed fitting. Then route it up the frame through the fender on the left side. We'll finish the other end later.
Now on to the tranny out:
This ones a little tricky but still not to bad. You'll do the same thing as in the front, remove the factory pipe but leave the rubber coupler. Put the other section of fernco in, then slip the 1.5" 90 in and tighten the new clamp up. Cut a little section of 1.5" PVC so you can adapt the 90 to the threaded adapter then thread the barbed fitting into the adapter. (if you can find a female threaded 90* this joint can be avoided and the barbed fitting can just be threaded into the 90*). You will need to remove the internal springs from the 2 30" radiator hoses. Thread one of the hoses under the engine between the crankcase and the skid plate. It's tight but I assure it is doable. Connect one end to the tranny exhaust the use the 1.5" barbed hose mender to connect the 2 30" hoses together. Thread the other hose up the frame on the right side through the center of the fender.
Now the airbox. This is the challenging one:
Before removing the airbox measure/mark up where exactly to drill for your 2" 90 in the bottom of the air box. Once you figure out where exactly yours clears drill your hole in the bottom of the box for the threaded 90. Use the 2" conduit nuts to secure the 90 to the airbox tight with the 90 facing straight out toward the left side of the machine. Then silicone up the 90 to make sure you have no leaks. Let it dry good, I let mine go overnight before I messed with it. Remove the shift lever off of the engine side and put it out of the way for now. Next you will want to put the box back and make sure everything clears. Take your regular 2" 90 and hold it in there to see if you need to trim anything off of it. I had to trim about 1/2" off of the end of both 90s. Then cut a small section of 2" pipe to join them together. DO NOT GLUE THIS YET. Once you get your 90s together you need a small section of 2" pipe, I'd say roughly 4" long. Will vary machine to machine, just have to play with it to see what fits. One end goes into the top of the 90 and the other end goes into the 45*. Then cut a small section of pipe just long enough to join the 45* to the 22.5*. Then another small section to join the 2" threaded adapter to the 22.5*. Then thread in one of the 2" barbed fittings. Flip your shifter lever around so it is facing the opposite way it does from the factory. This gives you more room for the pipe, it does not affect shifting, you do however need to trim the lower side cover to clear it. After the shifter is on play with the angles of everything until you have clearance all the way through. Once satisfied mark where all connectors join with a marker so you can line them up properly when you glue it and take it all back apart. You can glue everything with pipe glue except where the 90s join at the bottom of the air box. Do not glue that. Since the bottom of these 90s are now the lowest point in our air box we need to put a drain in them. I just drilled a hole in one and threaded it for 1/4" pipe thread. Then I just threaded in a 1/4 by 3/8 barbed fitting and put a little rubber cap on it. This is your new airbox drain. After your glue has set put the air box back in the machine with the small section of pipe glued into the one side of the 90* (see pic). When your box is in place you can slip the rest of the glued pipe work in and down. I put a little bit of silicone in the end of the 90 joining the airbox one. This will hold it together but still make it possible to remove the air box if needed. Once it's in there and slipped onto the airbox you can zip tie it up to the upper frame rail just behind the fuel tank. That was the hard part. Now it's easy. Take the spring out of your 2" flexible radiator hose (longest section autozone sells) feed the hose between the gear shifter bracket and the cylinder head. Connect the it to the barbed fitting you just installed under the fuel tank. On the front end you are going to come out of the 90 with a small section of pipe (varies machine to machine and with the length of the hose you used) into a 2" threaded adapter with a barbed fitting threaded in. Slip the barbed fitting into the radiator hose. This 90 will rest directly on top of the radiator fan. From there you can run it straight up through the fender and into your mounting plate on the rack. Don't forget to plug the factory hole in the air box and use T's and small hoses to re route your vent lines up high!

I will post more pics as I take them. I haven't finished my uprights yet.

The reason I say this is the best way to snorkel a 660 is there is no need for a jet change. Mine is 100% stock and runs exactly the same as it did before the snorkel all the way from idle up to the rev limiter with the same slightly rich smell and puff of black that it has always had. The radiator hoses are heat resistant to 250+ degrees so no worry about melting them and they are a lot thicker and tougher than pool flex hose. Any questions just ask! Good luck!

Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone


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Looks good. I am sure this will help some people out.
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