Well there are two ways of drowning a bike. First is if the exhaust is under water but the intake isn't. This is fine unless the bike stalls or gets turned off. This is easy to deal with but you have to get it to dry ground and stand it up to drain the water from the exhaust. Usually thats all it needs and you can be on your way.

The second and far worse is to drown the intake. First turn off the bike as soon as possible. Then winch or tow it out to dry ground. Remove the spark plug and blow the water out of the engine cylinder. Water doesn't compress like fuel so if you don't do this you can severely damage the engine. Then stand it up to get the water out of the exhaust. Pull the drain plug from the CVT cover, or remove the cover completely to get the CVT and belt to dry out. Once all that is done, put the spark plug back in and see if it will start. If it doesn't tow it back to the trucks and take it home. If it does, let it run for a minute and shut it down. Check the oil. If its milky tow it to the trucks and take it home, unless you have oil. Then drain the oil and replace with new, replace the filter if you have a spare. Replace the air filter if you have a spare. Replace all the fluids when you get home, checking to make sure none of them are contaminated with water (ie milky)

 

Well there are two ways of drowning a bike. First is if the exhaust is under water but the intake isn't. This is fine unless the bike stalls or gets turned off. This is easy to deal with but you have to get it to dry ground and stand it up to drain the water from the exhaust. Usually thats all it needs and you can be on your way.

The second and far worse is to drown the intake. First turn off the bike as soon as possible. Then winch or tow it out to dry ground. Remove the spark plug and blow the water out of the engine cylinder. Water doesn't compress like fuel so if you don't do this you can severely damage the engine. Then stand it up to get the water out of the exhaust. Pull the drain plug from the CVT cover, or remove the cover completely to get the CVT and belt to dry out. Once all that is done, put the spark plug back in and see if it will start. If it doesn't tow it back to the trucks and take it home. If it does, let it run for a minute and shut it down. Check the oil. If its milky tow it to the trucks and take it home, unless you have oil. Then drain the oil and replace with new, replace the filter if you have a spare. Replace the air filter if you have a spare. Replace all the fluids when you get home, checking to make sure none of them are contaminated with water (ie milky)

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Hopefully, it wont happen anytime soon.

 

Oh, also when doing an oil flush, you can use the cheapest oil you can find. Some autoparts stores will sale used oil that has been cleaned. They know shops use this oil to clean or flush parts like i described above.

Once I know I have all the water out, I then will replace with yamalube.

I dont think Crazyelece meant any harm. I just wanted to correct his statement of starting the bike then checking the oil. If you have milked oil, then your allowing dirt, mud and water to scar the engine if you start it. If you damage the engine then you will have to do a BBK

 

If you get water in the engine while the engine isn't running it won't turn milky. So if you kill the engine before the swamp, you likely won't see the milk but still could have water. Also if the oil is milky and you don't change the filter, guess what - you still have water in the oil and it contaminates the fresh oil, so changing the oil without changing the filter is a waste. But if you know the most that's cool with me:wee_hee:

 

If you get water in the engine it will turn milky. Once the water and oil mixes then it turns milky. The engine doesnt have to be "running" for this to occur. Yes, you can get water into the engine and not see it until the engine turns over. This is why you remove the spark plug, turn the engine over a couple times, the recheck the oil. If its not milky then you can put the spark plug back in and let it run for a minute then recheck. if its not milked then, your prob good and you didnt get any water in the engine.

Yes, it is best to change the oil filter every time. However, most people dont carry several filters with them. I, with several hundred others riders, have used the same method I described above and it has been proven to decrease the chances of damaging your engine. The way most of us get around the changing of the filters every time is because we allow our bikes to drain over night. with the filter and drain plug open, this will allow water and oil to drain completly out. This will also cut down the number of oil changes you need.

You can also use diseal fuel. I havent done that but I know several people use diseal instead of the oil to flush the engine.

Its not about knowing "most." Its about teaching people how NOT to damage thier bike when they swamp it. By telling someone to start the engine before they check the oil is just increasing the chances of a problem. The only problem I had with your instructions was when you said to let the bike run for a couple minutes then check the oil. by doing that, you will increase the chances of damaging the engine. Now, if he or anybody else wants to do that then we will sooner then later see a thread of "how to rebuild the top end."

Crazy, I stated that I didnt think you meant any harm. I think you just gout the instructions out of order. I would hope you would agree that running an engine with any water inside it is bad for the engine. This is why you check the oil several times before actually letting the bike "run.":singing:

 

My sons recent dunking, his oil still looked like oil, but, when we pulled the oil dip stick, water ran out. This was not real easy to see, and we had not ran the motor yet, had not even pulled the spark plug, if I could change the sequence of what we did, I would drain the water/oil out right there and change the filter, right there, refill with new oil/filter and then remove the spark plug and turn the motor over, but since we were an hour or better to get out, if everything went right, me pulling his Grizz and not running his motor, i opted to pull spark plug and get clear the cylinder and replace then get out asap and get home and start changing, we had to go through water up to the seat several times to get out, so the spark plug had to go back in,

Once we cleared the cylinder, even without running it, the oil was milked, showed up real fast, just wished that I had not pumped that through the motor, we did 2 more flushes at the truck, a friend had a gallon of oil...then got home and started to work, until it was clear and clean. including the diffs....time will tell if any damages. will continue to change the oil after the next couple of rides...way cheaper than a rebuild.

the challenge is what to do with the drained oil in a nice creek. maybe pour in a hole or fire somewhere and burn it?

My question is how much oil pressure and oil flow occurs inside the motor when cranking vs running?

and when I did run it, i used at the lowest rpms possible until the oil started looking like oil. We had several oil changes before we ran the motor even for a few seconds.

 

This is what we dealt with a 2 weekends back, my son fell off in a hole. Every water deal is different , and not one sequence will be right for all. Read and learn all that you can and make your best call with the circumstances,,that is what we did...and YOU are paying the repair bill not the other people.

 

One more thought, after the oil drains out, tilt the Grizz over on its left side, for a few minutes, then let down with oil plug still out and see how much more milked oil comes out of the wet clutch area. I would estimate a cup? we did this on every oil change.

 

Hi Guys,

I was hoping to get your thoughts. Any help appreciated.

2007 660 Grizzly Running - completely submerged for 1 hour -2degree Celsius
Pulled from Freshwater swamp - hit starter ,,,nothing
drained cvt on site
towed to cottage, stood on its rear end for 1 hour - unable to remove plug
4 hrs later - heated garage
removed air filter, drain air box
Removed spark plug
turned engine several time by cord and starter
no start
Following morning - drained engine oil, new oil and filter, replaced plug and fuel
Ran bike for an hour…
Can you please tell me any suggestions you may have…I was planning on draining the engine oil again along with the filter before I took it for a ride..
I am worried about corrosion and water settling in areas I cannot reach. Do I worry about coolant, diffs, electrical?
Any help appreciated.

 

Need to replace front and rear diff fluids
I would change the oil and filter again

 

Completely Submerged

Sorry for jumping on the thread. this seems to be the best forum for my concern.

History - Fall 2014 - Swamped by 660 Grizz in Frozen lake,10 feet of water. Sat for 1 hour until tractor arrived to hook it. Immeditely stuck it on it rear end...drained water.

Next day, in garage, drained engine oil 6 times, oil filter 3 times. Clean plug, air box, drained fuel. 1 can seafrom.Drove it for 40 kms..4X4 and diff locks working fine. minor spitting.(Water)....parked garage, drained front and rear diff.

Feb 2105....started ..1 more can seafoam. drove ....display not showing 4x4 or diff icon. 4x4 or diff not engaging....

I assume/hoping its water on the electrical plugs....will get a can of die electic once it warms up....any other test or suggestions. (Fuse?)

Thanks..

 

Submerged - Please help!

Submerged bike for an hour over winter. Bike running fine - Put 60 Kms on it. Stored for remainder of winter.

Took Bike out - 4X4 not working - Not appearing on display. checked fuses under seat..all good.

Sprayed all diff plugs and fuses with electrical cleaner ...

Still no luck. I did a test of the relays..they all click. I try to engage Diff lock - Red light and diff icon appears. I don't hear any gears engaging.

if anyone can help ..I would appreciate it.

thanks.